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Tim Wendelboe 現在已經是明星級的咖啡師,但讀他進入咖啡界的故事,感觸良多。</p>
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他高中畢業之後,就決定不再升學,想開始工作,而且從故鄉搬到奧斯陸。但他完全沒什麼工作經驗,找工作並不容易。碰巧那時 Stockfleths 需要人手,他就跑去應徵。面試他的是一位 Arvid Skovli,告訴他說店裏有兩個全職的空缺,剛好兩個人來應徵,就都錄取了。</p>
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當時他根本不喝咖啡,不但抽菸,每天還灌 3 公升可口可樂,唯一喝過的就是超市裏賣的、很難喝的咖啡。在面試的時候,Arvid Skovli 請他喝了一杯馬拉巴 (Monsooned Malabar),讓他非常訝異,怎麼那麼好喝!那支馬拉巴是由 Stockfelths 的母公司 Solberg & Hansen 所烘製。從鄉下來的 Tim Wendelboe,不但對咖啡沒概念,甚至沒見過咖啡店!</p>
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這個咖啡界的新鮮人在 1998 年 8 月底,得到一份 Stockflechs 連鎖店 Lille Grensen 分店的工作,9 月 1 號開始上班,上了三個小時的意式濃縮課後,就正式上工了,那年他 18 歲。隔沒幾個月,Arvid Skovli 要他參加 1999 年的挪威咖啡大師賽,初生之犢不怕虎,比賽前一天晚上,他還在看著錄像帶,學拉花,誰都沒想到他得到全挪威第四。</p>
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他覺得比賽太好玩了,2000 年捲土重來,以單產區意式濃縮挑戰。這次他的表現更好,決賽只輸給 Java / Mocca 的老闆 Robert Thoresen,得到挪威第二名。當年在蒙地卡羅舉辦了第一屆世界盃大師賽 (WBC),正是由 Thorensen 拿下冠軍,一時之間,全世界都把眼光投注到奧斯陸,認爲挪威是世界上咖啡水準最高的國家。事實上,WBC 的比賽規則是從挪威賽脫胎而來,回顧從 2000 年到 2006 年的 WBC 賽事,北歐拿下七屆裏六次冠軍,丹麥四次,挪威兩次。</p>
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隔年 2001,Tim 第一次拿下挪威冠軍,但是在世界盃時敗給了實力堅強的對手丹麥隊,他輸的心服口服。2002 年,他第二次代表挪威,世界盃在奧斯陸舉行,擁有主場優勢,他覺得世界冠軍就是他的囊中之物,但最後卻輸給丹麥的 Fritz Storm,完全出乎他意料。這次的失敗讓他非常絕望,「整個世界幾乎崩潰!」挫折之大,甚至讓他萌生放棄咖啡的念頭!</p>
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所幸隨後他到意大利旅遊,從意大利式的濃縮裏,Tim Wendelboe 得到極大的啓發,回挪威後,他決定開始烘豆。他找來 Solberg & Hansen 所有的咖啡,一一杯測,想找出他自己想烘焙的風味。六個月之後,他開發了比當時 S&H 更淺的意式濃縮。</p>
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他同時決定從頭修正原有的比賽方式。當他重看 2002 年的比賽錄像,發現有太多地方需要改進,與 Storm 比起來,他沒有盡職的介紹自己的咖啡,沒有把評審當作需要照顧的客人。他一方面在自己店裏做咖啡的時候更認真嚴肅,另一方面在練習時拍下自己所有的動作,每個細節都不放過。2003 年他沒有參加比賽,休息一年,然後他花了整整六個月準備世界盃,終於拿下 2004 年冠軍。</p>
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但這時他還是 Stockfleths 的員工,並且管理六間分店。得到冠軍之後,各方邀約不斷,爲了專心咖啡諮詢,他在 2006 年初辭去 Stockfleths 的工作。2006 年中,他突然面臨重大的抉擇。</p>
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Solberg & Hansen 的競爭對手之一,找上了 Tim Wendelboe ,希望用他開發的意式配方,而且掛他的招牌 。這個合作提案讓 Tim 非常猶豫,他雖然已經離開 Stockfleths,但老東家對他多年來的支持,在他做個人咖啡顧問的期間,甚至還借 Solberg & Hansen 的訓練室給他。最後他決定找 Solberg & Hansen 的首席執行官,說明這個情形。沒多久,S&H 投資 Tim Wendlboe 開一間屬於自己的咖啡館!</p>
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夢想成真了。「接下來整個夏天,我躺在沙發上,抽着雪茄、喝着啤酒,一面規劃新的烘焙坊與意式咖啡吧。」隔年 2007 年 6 月,Tim Wendelboe 新店開張!</p>
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這段插曲,由 Tim Wendelboe 自己在上一期 4/5 月號 Barista Magazine 刊出的 專訪 裏揭露。這篇文章是我看過 Tim 訪談裏最鉅細糜遺的,有興趣的朋友一定要看看!</p>
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爲了籌備咖啡館,他在 2007 年的博客裏,詳列他的器材與咖啡:</p>
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訂了一臺 La Marzocco GS3,給咖啡實驗室用;</p>
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另外訂了一臺雙孔 La Marzocco FB80,咖啡館與教學用;</p>
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一年前,當我離開 Stockfleth’s 咖啡館的時候,他們送我一臺三孔 Mirage 當作禮物,也會用在店裏;</p>
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跟德國的 IMS 預購一臺刷新的二手 15 公斤 Probat,我會把不同階段的整理過程貼出來,直到機器運來挪威爲止;</p>
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租了生平第一部車,會把 logo 印在上面;</p>
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從巴西 Santa Alina 農場買了一批日曬咖啡;</p>
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意式濃縮配方終於定案,就是用上面這支巴西作爲基底;</p>
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找到店面了!四月會租下來,咖啡自烘店預定六月開幕…</p>
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Tim Wendelboe 咖啡館某種程度奠立了北歐咖啡的特殊作風:</p>
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店裏只提供咖啡,沒有食物,沒有咖啡巧克力;</p>
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意式濃縮不再是 60ml,而是 30ml,但是價錢一樣,並沒有減半;</p>
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店裏賣的咖啡不再有「哥倫比亞」這樣的品名,而是特定的莊園或產地;</p>
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開始的時候還賣拼配意式,但後來只賣單一產區意式濃縮;</p>
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咖啡館本來就小,放一臺 Probat 烘豆機,顯得空間更加小,但他的店是繼 Thoresen 的 Mocca 之後,挪威又一間重要的自烘店。</p>
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